Foxy Hairclip

If you are anything like me and leave things to the last minute then this hair clip is for you! New Year’s Eve ready in 20minutes or less!

Dig around in your stash and I’m sure you’ll have enough to make a hair piece so you’ll be ready to party in no time!

by Marni Franks


An assortment of ribbons or lace

Sparkly flowers

Chiffon flowers




Hot Glue Gun and spare gluesticks

Hair clip base/headband




For this hair clip I am using the large black ribbon with white spots, one black chiffon flower and one orange with sparkles flower.

Take the wide ribbon and straighten one end with scissors. Then carefully melt the end with the lighter to seal in the loose threads.

NOTE: Natural fibres like cotton and silk will not melt. Your acrylic and synthetic ribbons will. You might need to test your ribbons first.


Then carefully start to loop the ribbon, starting with a big loop.


Use the hair clip to find the best position for the loops to sit.


Keep making loops, making them a little smaller each time. Three loops in total.



Remove the clip base and start to carefully glue the loops together.


Turn the looped section over and find the position for the hair clip base again.


Run a line of glue inside the ribbon and secure the hair clip base to the ribbon, so that the top part of the clip sits as shown in the below photo and doesn’t get glued down.


Turn the hair clip over.


Trim up the chiffon flower – many come with a net backing.


Place a small amount of glue in the centre of the back of the flower.


Place the flower so that it covers the remaining part of the hair clip base but does;t sit directly on it.



Flatten the chiffon flower petals out.


Place a small amount of glue on the back of your small orange flower with sparkles.


Glue the orange flower in the centre of the flattened black flower.



Turn the hair clip over and fold up the end of the black spotty ribbon, trim it as shown in the middle of the hair clip.


Melt the end of the cut ribbon and run a line of glue along the end.


Fold the ribbon across the back of the hair clip and glue down (avoid the base).


Gently ease the hair clip base out from under the ribbon.


Glue down any spots of the ribbon that seem a bit puffy or loose.


Take a small length of contrasting ribbon – orange or white.

Cut the ends at an angle and melt with the lighter.


Make a small bow and glue to the middle of the hair clip, just under the centre of the flowers.


Clip in your hair and you are ready!



from the 55FF team!

Mel, Dawn and myself would like to thank you for joining us this year. We hope you’ve had fun and made lots of exciting goodies. We are taking January off and will be back here in February with a different approach to the foxy goodness that we’ve shared so far.


Mushroom Rattle

by Dawn Lewis


Milford Soft Thread – White, 1 ball

Milford Soft Thread – any colour for mushroom cap, 1 ball (blue = Periwinkle, Pink = Sorbet, Red = Holiday Red)

Milford Satin Thread – Taupe, 1 ball

2.5mm hook

Polyfill stuffing

Doll Needle

This pattern is worked in the round, so mark the last stitch of each round to keep your place using a stitch marker, safety pin or piece of contrasting thread. When reading the pattern please note that the number in brackets at the end of each line indicates the number of stitches in the round.

UK crochet terminology.

Ch 2, dc x 4 into 2nd chain from hook.

R1: 2dcinc x 4 (8)

R2: (2dcinc, 1dc) x 4 (12)

R3: (2dcinc, 2dc) x 4 (16)

R4: (2dcinc, 3dc) x 4 (20)

R5: (2dcinc, 4dc) x 4 (24)

R6: (2dcinc, 5dc) x 4 (28)

R7: (2dcinc, 1dc) x 14 (42)

R8: (2dcinc, 2dc) x 14 (56)

R9-12: 56dc (56)

R13: (2dcinc, 3dc) x 14 (70)

R14-17: 70dc (70)

R18: (2dctog, 2dc) x 17, 2dctog (52)

R19: (2dctog, 2dc) x 13 (39)

Change thread to Taupe satin

R20: 39dc (39)

R21: (2dctog, 1dc) x 13 (26)

R22: 26dc (26)

R23: 1dc, (2dctog, 1dc) x 9, 1dc (18)

Stuff firmly and insert bell, then continue on to crochet stem.

R24-37: 18dc (18)

R38: (2dcinc, 2dc) x 6 (24)

R39: (2dcinc, 2dc) x 8 (32)

R40-41: 32dc (32)

R42: 2dctog x 16 (16)

Stuff stem firmly

R43: 2dctog x 8 (8)

R44: 2dctog x 4 (4)

Slst then bind off.

Leave a 70cm tail.

Spots, White … make 5

Ch 2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

R1: 2dcinc x 6 (12)

Slst then bind off.

Leave a 12cm tail.

Decide where your mushroom spots will go, evenly spaced around the mushroom cap, and mark the centre of each with a pin or piece of contrasting thread.

Thread the doll needle with the tail end of the Taupe thread. Run the needle from the stem base up inside the stem to where it meets the cap, and out one side. Stitch through the stem at the top 4 times (like a cross) to strengthen it. To shape the mushroom, put the needle back in at the top of the stem, and out where you have marked the first spot on the mushroom cap with your pin or thread. Reinsert needle close to where it came out and stitch back down to the top of the stem. Repeat 4 times, ending at the top of stem. OPTION – stitch long lines between top of stem and where the taupe base meets the coloured cap to create a series of ribs under the mushroom cap.

Bind off and thread the remaining tail inside the mushroom and out the other side. Trim off the excess close to the surface.

Thread the doll needle with the tail end of the white spots and stitch them over your anchor points around the mushroom cap.

Bind off and thread tail inside the mushroom and out the other side. Trim off the excess close to the surface.

Repeat for all spots.

mushrooms 55ff


By Marni Franks

I’m getting ready for Halloween next month and I decided that I’d make this collar to go with one of the costumes I plan on wearing. It’s orange and black so it’s still foxy-ish.


Two fabrics that co-ordinate

Medium weight fusible interfacing

2 buttons the same size



Sewing machine


1m of 6mm stain ribbon

Elastic band


Make sure you press your fabrics and if they are directional (stripes etc.) make sure you have enough fabric to get the direction of the print the right way up.

Iron the medium weight fusible interfacing to whichever fabric you prefer – as this collar will be double-sided it’s not really going to matter.

Print off your template here.

Cut out your template and pin to the wrong side of your fabrics. Cut 2 collar pieces from each fabric.




Cut the ribbon in half and roll each length up leaving a 5cm tail. Secure the rolled up section with an elastic band (if your kids have been Rainbow Looming use them to hold the ribbon, they are a good size elastic band).

Pin the tail of the ribbon onto the right side of a collar piece. Use the photograph as a guide. Pin the second collar piece right side down on the top of the ribbon and the right side up collar piece.





Pin and stitch along the edge, starting on the outside curve and leaving a 2in opening for turning.



Reverse stitch at the beginning and the end. Notch the corners, then trim the raw edges to 1/8in from the stitched line leaving a bigger edge at the opening.




Turn the collar sections right side out and press. Fold and pin the opening closed neatly and topstitch all the way around the collar.



Place the collar pieces together, matching the front centre points. Using a needle and thread, stitch the points together, passing the needle through a few times.



Place your buttons into position and attach using your preferred method.



Your collar is now ready to wear.




by Marni Franks


Main fabric – 10 1/2in square

Contrast fabric – approx 4in square

Sheet of Mylar

Fabric glue

Sewing machine



Buttons: 2


From your background fabric cut one 10 1/2in square.

From a sheet of cardboard or Mylar make a 9in square template. This needs to be subjected to the heat of the iron so it either needs to be something that can take the heat like Mylar or something cheap like cardboard that you can replace easily.


Grab some washable fabric glue – Sewline Glue Pen or Roxanne’s Baste It Glue.




Centre your 9in template on the wrong side of your background fabric. Press the top and the bottom edges in towards the centre of the template making sure that the edges are against the template and crisp.

Place glue in the corners of the square (the folded edge) and press the sides in towards the centre in the same way, the glue will set with the iron’s heat and hold it all in place.


Pull out your template gently.

Fold your square into quarters and press to get your guidelines for the next step.


Open up your square with the raw edges facing up. Pick a corner and fold it into the centre. Press lightly. You really want your outside corners to be as accurately folded as possible so in this step make sure you focus on them and if your centre is overlapping for the outside corners to work that’s ok and I give you permission to fudge this as needed. Once your corners are good press firmly.





Place the square with the folded side up (so you can see the centre points), then fold the corners in to the centre, this time making sure that the centre points match perfectly!

Measure inside the folded unit and cut a square of your contrasting fabric to that size. I tend to cut mine 1/8in smaller so that I know it fits perfectly.


Pin the folds down and stitch the centre in a little cross to secure the points down on the contrasting fabric.





Pick any of the openings and fold back, curving it gently, not pulling it too hard and press it with the iron. Fold back all of the openings that match the first one you have done (keeps the folds looking consistent like when you do cross-stitch). Press each fold and pin to secure. Fold the opposite openings back to match, pressing and pinning as you go.




Pick a curve and stitch the full arc, crossing over your little centre cross – this way you will only be stitching four rows and not have to start and stop for each mini arc. Reverse stitch at the beginning and end of each row.





Measure your finished window and cut a back for your pincushion that is a half-inch bigger all the way around. Align one edge of your window section to one edge of the backing and pin.


Start stitching on the edge that is opposite the aligned edge you just pinned. Reverse stitch and then stitch all the way around leaving a 1 1/2in opening for turning.


Trim the edges off leaving a wide edge at the opening. Notch the corners.



Turn the pincushion out the right way. Stuff firmly with toyfill.



Ladder stitch the opening closed.


Pull in the middle of your pincushion with a button either side and use your preferred method for attaching buttons.



Stick your favourite pins in it and you’re ready for your next sewing project!


Pixel Fox

by Dawn Lewis

Here is my original inspiration for this design

Here is the stamped cross stitch card I made using this design:
18″ (46cm) x Homespun – Blue
9″ (23cm) x Homespun – Orange
4.5″ (11.5cm) x Homespun – White
1.5″ (3.5cm) x Homespun – Black
White Thread
Rotary cutter
Quilters ruler
Self healing craft mat
1/4″ machine foot
This grid is 24 x 24 squares.
Any cross stitch, perler bead or basic graph pattern can be turned into a pixel panel.  I used graph paper to plot out the pattern as I wanted it to appear on my panel.  I opted for a little less bulk in the white tip of the tail, and though I neglected to add it to the top of my graph, I allowed a full row of the background blue around each edge.  My personal preference is to create these as a square … I just the like the symmetry of it.
Once you have graphed out your design, it’s time to add up those colours.  This pixel panel uses:
337 x blue squares
149 x orange squares
81 x white squares
9 x black squares
TOTAL – 576 squaresYup … that’s a LOT of squares!  Be prepared for some maths!
The next steps help you figure out how much fabric you need.  I have used 1.5″ x 1.5″ squares.  Given that your average bolt of homespun is 42″ of useable fabric across, you can confidently expect to get 28 squares from a single 1.5″ strip of fabric.
337 x blue squares divided by 28 = 12 strips x 1.5″ = 18″ (46cm)
149 x orange squares divided by 28 = 6 strips x 1.5″ = 9″ (23cm)
81 x white squares divided by 28 = 3 strips x 1.5″ = 4.5″ (11.5cm)
9 x white squares … being less than 28 = 1 strip x 1.5″ = 1.5″ (3.5cm)
That’s about 84cm of fabric all up, and there will be leftover squares.  If you get hooked on making these 8 bit pixel panels, you might want to keep those for your next project.
You will notice on my graph paper that there are black dots at each side of the lines.  The last thing I wanted to do while I was sewing was to make a mistake and have to undo all those little squares!  So, as I finished each line, I marked it left and right, so I could clearly see which line I was up to.  I started at the bottom, and worked my way up to the top.
To make it easy to follow the graph, I put it up on the wall in front of my sewing machine and kept my black marker close at hand.
Row 1 was super easy … I just had to stitch 2 blue squares together 12 times.  I chain pieced them, so I didn’t have to snip threads as I went, I just cut them all apart when I was done.  This gave me 12 x double blue squares.  So … I stitched them together in pairs.  That gave me 6 x quadruple blue square pieces.  I stitched them together in pairs, giving me 3 pieces with 8 blue squares.  I sewed all 3 together and had a finished row of 24 squares.
When I finished with each row, I laid them out on my ironing board in order.
Row 2 was a little trickier, as I had to include the 2 black squares for the feet.  I calculated that I needed to sew together 6 pairs of blue squares, then a blue + black square, another blue + black square, then another 4 pairs of blue squares.  Because they were chain pieced, it was really easy to keep them in order.  As I snipped the chain apart, I laid it out on my sewing table in order.  I soon got into a rythm of doing this … stitch together block 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 7&8, 9&10, 11&12 … and make sure that the right colours are next to each other.
If you get into a habit of laying them out so that the colour in the even number square is on top, then stitch that to the odd numbered square in the block next to it, you can actually chug along quite easily without making a mistake.  I did make a few, but that was before I got into a rhythm.
Row 3 and beyond brings more challenge as there are more colour pieces, but if you keep your system going, you should be fine.
When all the rows are stitched, it’s time to iron.  I pressed every single seam in one direction first on the back, and then pressed the front.  Then I flipped it over to the back again, and pressed every single seam open.  This helps it sit flat when it is finished … definately worth the time.
At this point your squares will look more like rectangles and your design will have this weird stretched out look to it.  Don’t panic … that’s how it’s supposed to look!
When all the rows are pressed, it’s time to stitch the rows together.  It was about now that I realised that, despite using my 1/4″ foot, not all of my seams were lining up.  Full disclosure … this is not how I usually make my 8-bit pixel panels, so this was a learning experience for me, which I am pleased to pass on to you.  For starters … my 1/4″ foot does not give me a true 1/4″ seam.  Even a fraction of a mistake cutting and sewing will show up in this stage.  I recommend pinning, and getting the seams to match as best you can.  You can see in the close up of the foxy legs how they really didn’t match up (good thing I’m getting over my need for perfectionism!).
Stitch Row 1 to Row 2 … make sure you have the correct rows (this is why I suggest laying them out in order, and keeping them that way!), and that they are right side up BEFORE you sew.  It will save you the heartache of unpicking later.  I speak from experience (between the kids, husband and Quality Control Kitty, the order or rows was disturbed more than once, and quite spectacularly!).
Press between rows, opening out the seams which gives a flatter finish at the end.  Take care when sewing not to stretch one strip too much.  If you look closely you can see some uneven fabric … I was trying to match seams and got a little carried away.  I also have a teeny tiny pleat in one square … be sure to keep it flat as you can.
Now all those stretched out rectangles will be back to squares again, so you will have a lovely blocky, 8-bit, graph-like design, just like the one you mapped out on your graph paper :)
What can you do with your panel?  Whatever you like!  Add some borders and make a baby or lap quilt.  You could also turn it into a wall hanging or a cushion cover, or even a bag!

Felt Fox

By Marni Franks


A4 sheet of orange acrylic felt

Scraps of white and black acrylic felt

5 different ribbons, trim, ricrac (15cm each)

White, black, green, brown and orange thread

DMC embroidery thread black 310

Toy fill


Felt Fox (1).jpeg


Sewing machine with zipper foot



Sewing needle

Stuffing tool (plastic chopstick)

Optional: Fray stop or lighter

Finished size

17.5cm tall


Print out your pattern sheet onto your cardboard. Cut out each piece carefully.

Place the fox body onto the orange felt, pin and cut out one body piece.  Remove the pins and place the body piece down on the felt again, placing the tail piece as well. Juggle to fit the pieces BEFORE you cut them out.

Felt Fox (3).jpeg

Felt Fox (2).jpeg

  Felt Fox (4).jpeg

Place the face and tail tip piece on the white felt, pin and cut out.

Felt Fox (5).jpeg

Place the nose piece on the black felt, pin and then cut out.


Pin the face pieces to the body. Use the photograph as a guide for placement.

Felt Fox (6).jpeg


Pin your ribbons across the front body section. Thread up the machine with the matching thread colours and stitch them down. Trim the ribbons down to match the curve of the body. Run a small amount of fray stop along the edges of the ribbons or melt them with the lighter to stop continual fraying.

Felt Fox (7).jpeg

Felt Fox (8).jpeg

Felt Fox (9).jpeg

Back to the face pieces, adjust them if needed, thread up your sewing machine with the white thread and the zipper foot. Stitch slowly around the shape, starting and ending at the tip (the reverse stitches will be covered by the nose). Turn your work as needed to get even stitches around the curves.

Felt Fox (10).jpeg

Felt Fox (11).jpeg

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Mark the eyes on the face pieces. Thread your sewing needle with two strands of black DMC thread and stitch a single line stitch, going over it two or three times. Tie off and trim the excess thread.

Felt Fox (19).jpeg

Pin the tail tip to the tail and stitch in the same manner, except leave the thread tails. Pull the threads to the back and tie in a reef knot to secure.

Felt Fox (16).jpeg

Thread the machine with the black thread and stitch the nose piece on, leaving the thread tails. Pull the threads to the back and tie in a reef knot to secure.

Felt Fox (13).jpeg

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Thread the machine with the orange thread. Pin the completed tail piece onto the back body piece and stitch on, leaving the thread tails. Pull the threads to the back and tie in a reef knot to secure.

Felt Fox (17).jpeg

Felt Fox (20).jpeg

Pin the body pieces together right sides out. Starting at the bottom left hand curve of the fox stitch all the way around as close to the edge as you can, finishing at the same spot on the right hand side curve.

Felt Fox (22).jpeg

Stuff the fox firmly with toy fill, using the chopstick to push the stuffing into the ears and face tuffs. Pin the opening closed and stitch closed on the machine.

Felt Fox (23).jpeg

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Your fox is ready!

Felt Fox (26).jpeg

NOTE: You can always hand sew this project if you don’t have a sewing machine or prefer handwork. Simply use DMC threads to stitch the pieces on.  :)